Category Archives: Jordan

Travelling From Jordan to Historical Jerusalem, Israel

Guns, gals and the Jerusalem shuffle!

I had a few misgivings about my route into Israel from Jordan. I had heard that the Allenby Bridge route could be protracted and problematic but as I was already in Amman it seemed like the best idea.

The previous night, at the hotel, I had met a cool Kiwi guy who was also backpacking through the area, there were not that many of us in this troubled land, and we spent the evening cruising around Amman on a “best bar” search. We had tried several real dives before finding the mother load in a faux English pub with regulars that seemed cast from Cheers and not the hookers and heavy lidded bouncers we had so far encountered.

wailing wall

So I guess the early morning start for the shuttle bus to the Jordanian border post was not the best of ideas! We managed to grab a sandwich and a coke from a vendor who showed us the way to the bus, it was very confusing as many vans and buses leave from this part of town.

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Visiting Historic Wadi Rum, Jordan

Wadi you make of that!

Ever since I saw the movie Lawrence of Arabia I have been fascinated by the desert. The romance of the wide open spaces and the mystery of the canyons inspired many a dream and stoked the fires of my imagination.

Earlier aficionados would have thrilled to the stories of Beau Geste and the foreign Legion in North Africa but my mind was firmly fixed on the deserts of Jordan and the history of the Arabs during the Great War.

My journey had started in Egypt and now found me leaving the ancient ruins of Petra and following the main route south to Wadi Rum. I had taken the early bus out of Wadi Musa and joined the company of several other travellers for a three day trip into the heart of the desert.

the mountains of wadi rum

The area was made famous by the film and also in the book penned by T.E Lawrence, the Seven Pillars of Wisdom where he recounts tales of the Arab revolt against the Ottoman Turks leading up to the end of the war. The seven pillars in this case refer to the impressive rock formation at the entrance to the wadi and overlooking the now static Bedouin settlement.

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Petra, Jordan and a Football Game

It was scorching hot leaving the Israeli border in Eilat and crossing the 400 metres or so of no man’s land to the Jordanian entry point. There are no buses and you simply have to cross the dried up river bed and persevere.

I had chosen this crossing because no visa was needed to enter Jordan from here and I could catch the bus up to Wadi Musa the closest town to Petra. The officials were moping around and not at all interested in us while the flies massed in numbers on every piece of dark clothing. Damn…I needed a beer. It seemed the electricity had gone out and the computers were all dead. They couldn’t connect to the main servers to check the identity and it was starting to look grim.

A small party of American tourists were being escorted into Jordan with their local guide and it seemed he was having none of this. After a few minutes of jovial and not so jovial banter the border guards agreed to let us through, noting our passport details on, I kid you not, the back of an anti terrorist poster. What would the CIA have made of that?

Duly stamped we all entered into Jordan together. I had missed my bus but the local guide hustled up a taxi for me and rather than wait the night in the dingy border town I opted for a price haggle to Wadi Musa. In the end it wasn’t too bad and at least I would be there for the game.
Game, what game? Football of course; Chelsea was playing Liverpool in an important cup game and I was keen to try and see it.

I managed to find the hostel easy enough and checked into my cell; really they don’t try too hard here. The manager however was great and after a nice cold beer assured me we could watch the match in his local. I thought this was a splendid idea and I trotted out after him.

We came across a small cafe packed to the rafters with local men in dish dash, all smoking furiously and drinking tea. I was the only westerner in sight and clearly they thought I was lost. My new friend was on hand though to gather up a couple of seats as we settled down to watch the game.
The guys were yelling and waving their hands around so much I thought I was going to be covered in scalding tea and when Chelsea, my team, scored first I was out of my seat and shouting as well.
That was when it all went wrong!

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